The replacement I ordered has a red button and the screw holes do not match what is in the unit. See picture. Does the "check filter" always light up when you first start it?
You'd think I would know that after all these years :- About to drag this thing back into the house to see ELC did the trick You'd think I would know that after all these years ".
When the dryer is powered on turned on this light flashes to get your attentionand reminds the user to verify that the lint filter has been cleanedand is in no way triggered by any type of sensor mounted in the lint filter housing.
When the dryer is started running this indicator lamp should turn off. Not sure where to order the right part at this stage. I heard the gas fire up whoompf and was getting warm air for a couple minutes or so out the rear vent. Then the heat stopped, and I have not been able to get heat again. That tells my my igniter is good, which also looked good on the multimeter I borrowed. Is the LG published a Service Bulletin from a web facing document?
I have the ELC I removed on my desk. I cannot get the button to click no matter the pressure I apply - do they break or does it have to be tripped by heat internally to click?
Doubting this was broken at this stage It also states that it was changed to improve performance, productivity, and reliability. The ELF screw holes do not align on my unit - I would only be able to affix with one screw which may or may not be OK. This has been changed to behind door are since if I believe.
New burner tube may need to be ordered to be able to properly mount the updated thermostat to OE specs. Not Drilling Hole in Tube.
Found the serial after pulling the unit out - first three digits are On test 3 of the diagnostic, it petered out at low 30 something degrees. It did the same thing with the old hi-limit installed too. Never makes it as far as the manual implies it should: "In normal state if displayed temp. Reached in there to push those buttons, which are impossible to tell if they actually click or even need clicking. Tempted to give up, even though I had success fixing the washer a couple years back! Pages: [ 1 ] 2 Go Down.
Author Topic: LG gas dryer flame won't stay lit. Read times. Before you go off on LG, take the vent hose completely off the dryer and see if this does the same thing. Your hi-limit thermostat may be defective if the problem persists. Naturally, we don't run the dryer with any panels removed or the door open. To "Repair man": Thanks for your suggestion. I did, indeed, have the vent hose disconnected the dryer, when it DID light, only ran for less than 10 seconds before going out, so the vent being disconnected wasn't a problem.
As for the hi-temp thermistor, the appliance repair guy replaced two of them. The old ones checked 'OK'. To be on the safe side, I jumpered each of them separately to simulate an "NC" condition: flame would initiate, but drop after seconds. If I interrupted the sequence "pause" , it would not re-light as it should. One would think that the controller board was at fault: I did replace it, too.
It would be a stretch to think that the "new" one would have the identical problem as the "old" one. Same with the flame sensor. The mad scientist. If it is not a sensor issue, then something is causing the flame to not travel thru the burner flue correctly.
This could be lint trapped in the intake filter area or blower problems. You have apparently covered everything else up til now. You say when the flame is "interrupted" it will not re-light. You also say the glow bar comes back on. When the glow bar comes back on,separate the flame sensor wires and see if it ignites. Generally, the flame extinguishes before I push the "interrupt" button; that is, it will generally only stay lit for seconds.
A few times, it has stayed on maybe for a total of 30 seconds , at which time I thought "it might be working properly". This was when I "interrupted" it. When it re-started, the igniter came on, but no gas was introduced, therefore no re-light.
I will restart it setting the cycle to "heavy load", which demands the maximum drying capability , "start" the unit and watch: unless I have waited several minutes, the igniter DOES NOT come on. It's as if the flame sensor has to cool down before allowing a re-light.
That's why I replaced it. The replacement didn't cure the problem. Since it does ignite after a "cold start", the sequence seems to be working. It just terminates after seconds! For no apparent reason The only other possibility logically thinking is that some other protection feature is interrupting something on the controller board. There is a 'dry sensor' and 'thermistor' within the blower housing, but a look at the schematic doesn't show it within the 'area of responsibility' for ignition and operation, only to sense completion of fabric dryness.
From "jumptrout51", I assume you mean to 'unplug' your term "separate" the flame sensor wires: the flame sensor is an "NC" switch according to the schematic , meaning it is required to be in the circuit to "enable' the relay on the controller board that lets the sequence flame 'on' work.
I did try jumpering it once: the igniter stayed on, but the gas never came in I 'interrupted' it after 30 seconds, so I wouldn't burn out the igniter. From "Repair-man", I removed the blower cover and thoroughly cleaned everything out of all channels Plus, with the face off and the vent pipe disconnected, there were no restrictions. Yes, I know I repair TV's and cars and almost anything else.
I'm missing something, but can't figure what! I certainly appreciate the great suggestions! The mad really! The flame sensor does have to cool off. It is heat activated. Hello f degrees? Answer this question I have this problem too Subscribed to new answers.
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